Budgeting for a trip round the world: expected and actual spending

When I started thinking about this trip I thought that $15,000 for six months sounded pretty reasonable. Spoiler: I nailed it.

Step 1: an RTW ticket

The first purchase for my trip was the plane ticket. While many people are happy to buy tickets en route, I’m more of a planner – and I also had several very set dates to arrive places, and some long flights (Brazil -> London, Europe->Jakarta) that were unlikely to get cheaper if bought later, and could be harder to find seats on if left too late. I spent a couple of months playing around with itineraries at rtw.oneworld.com, checking out how taxes and fees changed if I added a side trip to Buenos Aires, or if I flew TAM Airlines Brazil->London instead of BA, etc. Different airlines and airports have very different levels of fees and taxes, so there’s a lot of possible optimizing at this point – it is well worth spending some time reading the forums at Flyertalk to pick up some tips.  The biggest trick here was that the ticket base price varies by the country your first flight departs from – so I saved a bunch of money by planning to fly on award miles Seattle->Melbourne and then start my RTW ticket in Australia. My first itineraries were pricing out at ~USD$5500, and my final booking was US$4000 (I also benefited from a convenient collapse in the Australian dollar the week before I booked!) This ticket didn’t cover every leg of my trip – besides using airline miles to get my return ticket to Australia and fly within it (total fees of ~$170) I planned to pay cash for the short flights within continents (eg Lima-Cusco, London-Geneva, Ireland-Paris, Jakarta-Singapore) and one flight to Tahiti that wasn’t covered by anyone on my RTW alliance. This also gave me more flexibility for the short trips that didn’t really need to be locked in so far ahead, and meant that I could consider these trips as part of my per-continent budget.

Final RTW ticket routing:

Melbourne-Auckland, Tahiti-Easter Island-Santiago-Lima-Rio de Janeiro-London, Istanbul-Jakarta, Hong Kong-Melbourne.

During the trip I had to change the date of the Istanbul->Jakarta flight, for a $125 fee (my own fault for booking it the wrong month) but there were no available flights around the date I wanted so for no extra charge they booked me London-Jakarta instead, which suited me even better.

Initial travel budget:

RTW ticket $4000
Seattle-Melbourne return $100 fees
Melbourne-Brisbane return $70 fees
Auckland-Tahiti (no OneWorld airlines cover this) $400
BASE TRAVEL $4570

Step 2: break up the trip into estimatable chunks

If your budget is going to significantly define where and how long you can travel, obviously you’ll need to do this part before pulling the trigger on the RTW ticket above.

I drew up a per continent budget, using pretty broad strokes. For Australia and London costs were less predictable since I was staying with family, and I kind of just guessed. For the rest of the time, I looked up a half dozen or so sites using search terms like backpacking cost per day and tried to find sensible looking overall numbers for the continent, or where that varied too much for a specific country, then calculated an expected daily average of food and accommodation spending and multiplied by days in the area. If there were any major activities for the location I added them in (eg: Spanish lessons in Chile, Macchu Picchu fees in Peru), then put in a buffer for catching buses, getting coffee, shopping, etc.

In some places I already knew a lot of the travel within continents that I planned to do, so to estimate these expenses I looked up what my intended flights/trains would cost if I were booking them about four weeks ahead, and listed those costs in my budget.  For others I made quite detailed hypothetical plans in order to calculate potential travel costs, most of which I ended up not following in the slightest (especially in Asia, since it was so far away when I was planning) but which still turned out to be a pretty accurate guide to how much I spent. For example, I priced out a train from Singapore to Chiang Mai, boat to Laos, flight to Hanoi, then train to Hong Kong, and I ended up going to almost none of those places. For me this kind of detailed hypothetical trip planning is almost as much fun as actually travelling, but YMMV – just be aware that there can be value in the exercise even if you don’t want to commit to a set path.

 

Planned and actual budgets per continent:

Australia Actual spending
$600? $770

 

Oceania (15 days) Actual spending
Transport ($100) 30 ferry
Accom (15*40 = $600) 100 + 180 + 305 = 585
food (15*20 = $300) 100 + 65 + 118 = 283
Activities ? 120 + 107 + 125 = 352
$1000 total  30 + 585 + 283 + 352 = 1,250

 

South America (31 days) Actual spending
Budgeted costs Chile Argentina Peru Brazil total
Food ($500) 70 75 150 70 365
Accom ($1000) 500 85 225 40 850
Travel ($600) 115 460 575
Other ($900) 700 112 250 110 1170
$3000 total 1270 390 1090 220 2960

 

Europe 60 days Actual spending
Travel ($1500)  $1400 (London<->NYC, London<->France, London-Dublin-Paris-Geneva-Barcelona-Dublin-London)
Accom ($1000+) $1345 (30 nights paid, remainder staying with family)
Food (60@$25 = $1500) $850? $300 in London, 200 San Sebastian, cash spending
Other ($500) ~$1100  (probably includes some more food)
$4500 total $4670

 

South East Asia 30 days Actual spending
Travel ($300) $280
Accom ($300 ) $705: $595 cc + $25 HK + $85 thailand
Food ($300) $535: $130 + $180 cash HK + $45 cash Thailand + $155 sg + $25 jakarta
Other ($600) $300: $138 cash in HK + 40 thailand + 100 SG + 20 jakarta
$1500 total $1820

Step 3: track spending during the trip

As I travelled, I had my budget plans (basically the ‘budget’ column of the tables above) easily accessible in OneNote on my phone, and I tracked everything I spent in a notepad app stored locally on my phone (especially important in places like Tahiti with no internet access!) This allowed me to check if I was tracking against my expected averages or if I had unexpected room from one budget pool. When I had internet, I also entered rough bulk transactions into Mint so I could use their tagging system for my overall budget – Mint was particularly handy in Europe where more of my spending was on cards and some of my travel/hotel costs were split with Nick, so I could just pull up everything tagged ‘Nick’ to calculate the total to split.

Through South America I was pretty good about tracking everything, and it was easy to include budget considerations in my plans since I was only making decisions for myself. Once in London I got pretty slack, since it didn’t feel like ‘travel’ so much just buying coffee and groceries – fortunately that was predominantly card purchases so Mint was tracking it for me anyway. I realized that when I was with other people, budget felt like less of an important factor, although it’s hard to pinpoint why – perhaps just the extra social pressure of ‘let’s get coffee!’ is enough to overwhelm the mental calculations? Fortunately Nick was also travelling with a budget in mind so we were on the same wavelength in general.

Arriving in Jakarta was a bit of a price shock from London, in a good way but it made me far less careful with my spending! I also didn’t track my spending terribly well in Jakarta and Singapore, so those figures are slightly rough (guessing at the categories I spent all my ATM withdrawals on). However in general my budget was working out pretty nicely until I had trouble finding accommodation for the Saturday night in Hong Kong, and ended up spending a ton ($280!) on a nice hotel because I didn’t realise soon enough that it would actually be hard to get a place (PS Airbnb is useless for last-minute bookings).

Step 4: post-trip check

After my trip, I spent some time figuring out how well my budget estimates had gone. I realized that I’d forgotten to count my startup costs – new backpack, travel insurance – and fixed expenses – ~$150/month for my phone and my storage locker in Seattle – which added about $1200 to the trip, and I hadn’t budgeted anything for the last few weeks I spent in Australia, where I spent maybe another $500. I had otherwise gone over my planned spending by about $800 by the time I got back to Australia, so my door-to-door spending from March 30, departing Seattle to October 14, arriving in Seattle was just under $17,500 which compares reasonably well to my original out-of-thin-air number of $15,000! Then I had to start paying rent again, and went out to restaurants and coffee shops pretty continuously until I started work in December, so I spent a few thousand more on regular expenses before I got my first paycheck on December 31. It’s pretty important to have savings for that stretch between getting back and getting paid again.

Caveats

One important note if you’re looking at my budget to help plan your own trip, is that I saved a bunch of money using airline miles and hotel points built up with credit card bonuses, and by staying with friends and family as I travelled – while airline miles can be collected relatively easily by any American willing to put in the effort, it’s a lot harder to carefully plant friends and family all over the world, so you may not be able to rely on that :p

A little more specifically, my spending for London and Melbourne is ridiculously low for any comparison purpose since I was mostly just hanging out with friends and family. In London, since my sister had literally just given birth, we pretty much stayed in the house poking the baby for fun and occasionally getting coffee or groceries nearby. If you go there in order to be in London you will spend a lot more money on both accommodation and actually doing things. My sister thinks I should add for complete disclosure that I don’t buy clothes etc. Ever. So that wasn’t a budget challenge for me.

In total I benefited from 101 nights of free accommodation, primarily in some of the most expensive cities I visited (London, New York, Geneva, Melbourne), of which 5 were paid for with credit card miles and the rest were staying with family. This means I only spent 95 nights in paid accommodation, including three nights of just camping fees and 12 nights shared with Nick (and Hannah and Finley).

Speaking of accommodation, one of my biggest wins was that I could sublet my apartment to friends while I was travelling. This only worked because I’d been in the same apartment for several years and had a great relationship with the management company – if they hadn’t agreed to this, my lease was up the day I was leaving so I would have let it go and looked for a new place when I arrived back. After a few friends-of-friends fell through I finally mentioned it to the right guy, my boyfriend’s co-worker, about five weeks before I left (they were looking for a place in my neighbourhood and jumped at a six-month furnished setup!). I rented it out at cost and they paid me back for rent+bills each month, it worked perfectly.

Credit card cashback: Barclays $800, Charles Schwab ATM refunds ~$150 (valuable for convenience!), REI visa cashback $100 (on my new backpack for the trip).

Airline miles value:

  • Alaska $1800 return to Australia (I include the extra value of the last minute booking, but not the bonus value of business class since I wouldn’t have paid for it)
  • Qantas $200
  • flights to New York $500 from London, $300 from Seattle

Hotel points value: estimated $500 (Lima, New York * 2, Dublin, Hong Kong)

Interested?

  • The Alaska credit card  can be applied for about every three months, and they don’t mind you having more than one. Each time you open one you get 25,000 miles, and there is almost always a promotional offer running that gives you $100 credit after you spend $1000, which pays for the annual fee – then you cancel it before the second year. A flight from Seattle to Melbourne costs ~60,000 miles.
  • The Barclays Arrival Plus gives you a $400 travel credit after spending $3000 in the first three months.
  • The Charles Schwab savings account  refunds all ATM fees, worldwide.

 

Jac in Jakarta

 

My 12 hour flight from London was pretty smooth – several empty seats, so I had one empty one next to me, in front of me, and a woman directly behind me but she had two empty seats next to her so if my reclining bothered her she was free to move. Excellent! And I was in the row behind the shortened exit row, so the guy in my window seat could get out without bothering me (I was in seat 75 on this map). I watched District 9 (great), a travel show on Ramadan in Australia, the first part of Avengers (not great! Not even good enough to continue) and The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (great!) plus read a few short stories and even slept several hours.

We took off about 45 minutes late from London, which made my 90 minute connection in Kuala Lumpur for Jakarta pretty tight. I made the flight, but as I suspected, my bag didn’t – although the flight took off 30 minutes late, so I’m sure they could have done something if they’d been desperate. Instead I waited around the airport for an hour for it to arrive on the next flight, along with a half dozen others who’d landed with me. Immigration was interesting – I knew from previous research that Indonesia had just recently granted visa-free entrance to British tourists, but this wasn’t reflected on the airport signage. So I went to the visa counter and showed my British passport and they said I didn’t need one – I was mildly concerned that they’d just try and take my money anyway, so that was nice. After the visa queue (which was actually empty) I went to the arrival queue (also literally empty), where the guy inspected  my passport for a few seconds and then stamped it. Then I walked along into what looked like the normal immigration queue area, which featured those lines of queue ropes, but was all closed off in favor of the two small desks I’d just been past – because it wasn’t busy enough? I walked straight past a guy sitting in a chair against the wall who stopped me and checked my passport again, and then I was done with immigration and through to hang out at baggage claim. I noticed here that pretty much everyone was wearing pants and a shirt, despite it being tropical weather – presumably because of the conservative nature of the region. I only noticed people in shorts and short skirts in the larger expensive malls, I assume some correlation with Westernization.

Tim had told me to catch the Damri bus to meet him at a shopping center – unfortunately I was his first visitor so it turned out this bus stopped just short of this shopping center! It was only a few hundred meters, but since Jakarta isn’t a walker friendly place this meant walking on the footpath next to the freeway, crossing a three lane road with all my bags, etc. It didn’t take too long to meet up, and then we went into the plaza to grab something to eat – some nice classic curry and rice along with some kind of orange drink that is apparently very common there. Afterwards he said we should grab some groceries so we went to the grocery store at the bottom of the mall, which had somehow closed since he was there a week or so earlier – it seemed to still have cashiers running and people buying stuff but all the shelves were empty and the place was partially dismantled and demolished!?!!!! We caught a taxi back to his place and he took me on a run up 42 stories to his rooftop to see the sunset. From here I also got to there the city called to prayers, which was fascinating. This is the first place I’ve ever been with a broadly Muslim population, and we could hear dozens of mosques running slightly out of sync, so the singing started in one spot and then built up until they were all going.

rooftop Jakarta
rooftop Jakarta

We went for dinner at a nearby restaurant where you order a ton of dishes, eat what you want, then just get charged for what’s gone. The best part was jackfruit curry, only because who knew there was a thing called jackfruit?!?! Jac ate jackfruit in Jakarta. Yessssss.

buffet dinner
buffet dinner

Sunday

Sunday morning (6am-noon?) is car free along the main road in Jakarta, so we got up crazy early (6am) to join in while it was cooler. It was pretty fascinating – tons of people just walking, some of them in workout gear, some people jogging, quite a few on bikes. The buses still run, in their dedicated bus lane in the centre of the street, but the bikes use that lane until a bus comes then all swerve out into the walking area – so you have to be a little careful. There were tons of Barca outfits, lots of matching Dad-and-toddler versions even. We walked for a while, picked up some kind of fried coconut batter that neither of us was a big fan of, then turned around and headed back towards a café Tim described as ‘very Melbourne’.  He said it’s normally full, but it was deserted at 9am – a waiter said it doesn’t get busy until noon.

view of the car-free street
view of the car-free street

We went home to have a lunchtime nap and then headed out to see the National Gallery and National Monument, taking a micro bus – 40c a trip, wave one down and pay the driver/guy collecting. Tim said that since they’re so cheap, before he knew where they all went, he’d just jump on one heading in the right direction and jump off if it turned off his path, catching another one.

The gallery was an odd building – a number of big signs and a noticeboard advertising cultural events, but we couldn’t spot the entrance. We went in to a side gallery that was showing an exhibition of “the most important Spanish fashion designers” which was actually pretty interesting, especially the one photo which had masking tape added to cover a bare nipple. There were some kids also in there who asked us if they could take photos with us, Tim said this is pretty common for him in touristy areas. After this we wandered around a little, convinced that there was a main exhibition as well, and eventually found it. It turned out to be on Indonesia’s Independence, with some quite interesting paintings where I felt like I was missing a ton of symbolism. There was also a 10 page typed Word document about the experiences of one Dutch guy during the fight for independence which was quite curious – it included stories of how he had run a group of commandoes and killed people, then about page 7 it started featuring some quotes in Indonesian, the next couple pages were written entirely in Indonesian, and then the last three were all blacked out like a censor had been through.

2015-08-30 15.41.19

interesting artwork
interesting artwork

After this we walked through the streets a little way to get to the National Monument (abbreviated to MoNas – Tim says he has lots of fun trying to understand all the abbreviations like this!). It turned out there were gates at either end of the park and we were in the middle so had to walk quite a way. We bought a coconut and some fried bananas from fruit stands, and strolled in. It’s an austere place, but we’ll populated with people walking, jogging and flying kites. Fortunately the monument was already closed so we didn’t have to decide if we wanted to climb it 🙂 With all the Indonesians around taking photos, we were pretty confident someone would eventually ask to take a photo of us so we could get one of us in front of the monument from them, and indeed a group of about ten teenage(?) boys from out of town approached us and we spent several minutes taking group photos and individual photos with each of them, it was pretty fun!

2015-08-30 16.40.26

Tim with the Monument Nasional
Tim with the Monument Nasional

Leaving here, we spotted the free government city circle tour bus, which we knew stopped at the mall near his place, so ran for it and jumped on. At the mall we decided to check out the rooftop bar for some city views – very nice! It was hard to find seats but we spotted a tourist couple that had been on the circle bus taking up a booth and asked if we could join them. We chatted for a bit – she was a teacher from Holland taking a sabbatical, they were headed to Sulawesi for a month and then going to spend several months on Curacao, where he had worked years ago.

view from Sky Lounge
view from Sky Lounge

Once home for the night, we decided to watch a movie. We watched one called Habibie and Ainun, the biography of a former Indonesian president. It was quite odd – the main character had a bafflingly weird laugh and disingenous childish smile, and the movie skipped over how he had graduated from an airplane builder to vice president. The next morning Tim said this to his roommate’s Indonesian girlfriend, who explained that the weird characteristics were just like the president – and she found us a video clip of him doing exactly that laugh, so props to the actor!

Monday

I helped Tim wake up for a run and then went back to sleep while he headed off. We had to go to his work to pick up his tickets and cash for his visa run to Singapore with me, which was interesting – took a couple micro buses, walked a way, through a market area. I met a colleague of his who asked if we could buy him some Bitcoin from the Singapore ATM, was very excited to hear I knew about Bitcoin and sad that we weren’t hanging around to talk about it! Once he had his trip packet, we went to the work canteen to buy some of this  bubble-tea-esque dessert. Very odd, but it really worked quite well as a mixture.

dessert....things
dessert….things

To get to the old town, we took the ‘real’ TransJakarta bus, which has bus stations in the middle of the road and you have to swipe a card to get in. It was only midday so not too crowded, but still pretty cramped. All the TransJakarta buses and the trains have a front section for women only to cut down on harassment, and the buses have little icon signs saying regular stuff like “give up your seats to the elderly” but also “don’t grab women’s butts”. I didn’t have any trouble myself and noticed quite a few other women in the mixed section. When a seat opened up it seemed to be offered to nearby women first. Quite interesting.

Once we got to the old town station, it wasn’t very clear where to go so we asked a local who pointed us down the street. It looked strangely deserted, and it turned out that was probably because all the museums are closed for Monday. We walked around the square, stopping to chat to an excellent statue actor, then went into the café Batavia feeling like we were giving up on the cultural activities for the day – it turned out to be an amazingly well preserved hundred year old building with a guide to all the old buildings around it in the menu, excellent! The building was lovely, the food was excellent, A++ would visit again. We decided to go see the old bridge nearby based on the menu guide and walked along the canal to it – a very odd area, some buildings being restored by a local heritage society, others in the process of falling down. The canal smelled terrible – apparently the Dutch built them to feel at home but they just turned into stagnant messes filled with rubbish.

a guide-menu!
a guide-menu!
cafe Batavia
cafe Batavia
crumbling old town
crumbling old town
Kota Intan Bridge
Kota Intan Bridge

Once back to our starting location, we could see the bus station we’d arrived at, and walked half way around it, but couldn’t see the entrance. We asked directions a couple times and ended up in the train station so caught a train instead – perfect since Tim had wanted me to experience peak hour trains! We had to transfer so got out at the correct station, and Tim had heard an announcement as we arrived that we needed to go to platform 5 for our next train, so we headed over there. But we double checked when the train pulled up, and were told that it was a different train and we should be back at the platform we’d started at. So we walked back to platform 3, and asked a guard if this was right, and he said no, platform 5! We were obviously a little confused so said we just got sent back to this one – he laughed at us and explained that the trains left from both platforms. It turned out that we had been just missing our train each time we crossed the tracks and waited for a train to go past instead of rushing ahead of it like most of the locals. Of course now that we’d missed three trains in five minutes, it was about 15 minutes til the next one which we did catch.

Tuesday

Up at 4am, felt terrible but that seemed pretty reasonable. However when we got in the cab I started thinking I might actually feel sick, and as we pulled up to the terminal 30 minutes later I jumped out and threw up in a bin (nice timing!) I assume it was something I ate…Tim said he was glad we hadn’t gone to a street vendor for dinner as then he would have been feeling guilty 🙂

Tim headed off for his 6am departure and I sat down to wait for my noon plane. I thought perhaps I should just get an earlier flight but it was too hard, and then I spotted a lounge on the landside of security so paid the $15 to go in and slept on a couch for a couple hours, then had a shower and some orange drink and felt much better. Once checked in, I went through immigration into the duty free area and bought a bottle of water. Turned the corner and there’s the security checkpoint that makes you throw out all your water – wtf? Someone should calculate the cost of bullshit imaginary security just in traveller money spent on water + plastic bottles thrown out.

Impressions

I don’t think I would have enjoyed Jakarta at all on my own, but with my personal tour guide, it was quite interesting and fun catching local buses and walking around. Alone I would have been way too intimidated to do much within a few days. The weather was a bit of a shock coming from London, but having air con at the house (and in all the malls and main buildings) made it easy to handle! If anyone plans to be in the area I’m sure Tim would love to be a host again, although apparently his new place won’t have air con or even room for a guest, so it wouldn’t include accommodation 🙂

 

One: the itinerary!

iceland_skyline

I set up my new blog! Obviously the first question is where I’m going – so for my first post, here are the dates I’ve booked a plane ticket for so far:

March 30  – Melbourne, Australia (family)

April 30 – Auckland

May 4 – Tahiti

May 8 – Easter Island

May 12 – Santiago (taking Spanish lessons)

June 4 – Lima (to go to Macchu Picchu)

June 15 – Rio

June 17 – London (family)

August 4 – Cork, Ireland (a wedding)

August 10 – 30 – Paris, Croatia/Albania/Adriatic coast, Istanbul

September – Jakarta, Singapore, Thailand, Hanoi, Hong Kong

October  – a couple weeks in Melbourne then back to Seattle